The city of Jerusalem (Urusalim) gets its name from the Canaanites, the earlier inhabitants of Palestine, after their local god Shalem. The city was first conquered by Muslims in 632 AD. Today the largest quarter of the city is Muslim Quarter, inhabited by 20,000 Palestinians. A journey through the Arab Market in this quarter is like navigating a labyrinth. Beyond the Western Wall, or "Wailing Wall" on the site of the old Temple mount stands the great Muslim mosque, the Dome of the Rock. It sits upon the location of the old Jewish Temple which was destroyed almost 2,000 years ago. The Dome of the Rock was built originally by the Caliph 'Abd al-Malik in 692 AD, only 60 years after the death of Muhammad. One of the highest points in the Old City, Mount Moriah was the place where Abraham built his rock altar of sacrifice for his son. Muslims believe it was his son Ishmael, their forefather. (The Jews believe it was Abraham's other son Isaac, father of Jacob, who changed his name to Israel ("wrestles with God") and had 12 sons, the fathers of the 12 tribes of Israel.) It is as well the foundation stone of the Temple of Solomon and Herod. It is also where Muslims believe Muhammad miraculously transported from Mecca and ascended to heaven. For this reason, Jerusalem ranks only behind Mecca and Medina in importance for Muslims. Entrance to the mosque precinct has armed guards. I was told by the guard that the mosque was closed to tourists, until, "Oh, 1 pm", while he played an engrossing game of backgammon, in a way that sounded like he was making this up as he went along. But he had the automatic rifle! Later, while walking through the streets of the city, I passed through a door in a gate and found myself in the mosque precinct. As I walked up the steps to the mosque itself I thought of three things: I guess the mosque is open now, this blue and gold mosque is quite fabulously beautiful, and finally, I am now standing on the actual historical site of the original Jewish Temple and the Holy of Holies. As I approached the door of the mosque itself, I noticed people were removing their shoes before entering. There were thousands of people there for prayer. It was the last day of Ramadan, the month-long Muslim fast (during the daylight hours) and many pilgrims were in attendance. The April 1996 issue of National Geographic magazine has an aerial picture of this area with 200,000 people praying. What I had not realized at the time was that I had passed through a guard point unchallenged because I had entered at the same time as an old Muslim woman, whom the guards assumed I was accompanying. We parted after the gate and as I approached the door of the mosque, I was stopped. Because I didn't understand his Arabic, I asked if the problem was that I needed to remove my shoes. "Are you Jewish?" I was asked. Later I learned that Jews are not permitted to pray on the Temple mount. Dressed in my khaki rain coat and pants, I replied "Christian." "Closed today," I was told amidst the thousands surrounded me. No explanation was given about when it might be opened, except that my being there would "upset the guides" and I was promptly ushered out.
Bill Petro, your friendly neighborhood historian